Home Access Answers
A Bar, Is a Bar, Is a Bar . . . Or Is It?
by Jane Hampton, CID, Access Specialist
Dear Jane,
We need to install
grab bars in our shower. What do we need to be aware of?
Art P.,
Elk River, Minn.
Dear Art,
Before beginning
a grab bar installation, it is important to know what type of shower
you have. The type of shower determines the installation method
and products needed to have successful results.
Grab bars need to be sturdy enough to support your weight. State
building codes and federal accessibility guidelines for public buildings
require grab bars be installed to support a minimum of 250 pounds.
In most cases, additional wood or structural material needs to be
added to the shower walls. You could install plywood between the
shower unit and wall studs, or solid wood blocking between the wall
studs. If you install a grab bar onto an existing wall without providing
the adequate support, the grab bar will not hold properly. You could
suffer great harm in the event you are relying on the grab bar for
support and it pulls out of the wall.
The easiest way to install proper support for the bar is to open
the wall, either from the shower side of the wall or, if possible,
through the back side of the shower from the adjacent room. This
approach will require some patch and repair work to the wall after
the support has been installed.
If you have a molded
fiberglass shower, installation of grab bars is more of a challenge.
Most prefabricated units use a thin fiberglass wall material that
is not strong enough to support a grab bar. The issue of concern
is the space between the fiberglass shower wall and stud wall.
There is a product we have used called “The
Solid Mount” that attaches to the wall stud, filling the hollow
space, sealing the hole and leaving a mounting surface to which a
standard grab bar can be safely attached. If this is your situation,
it is best to rely on a professional installer who has previous experience
working with fiberglass. It is important to have the proper tools
to ensure the shower wall does not “crack” or become
damaged.
There are a variety
of grab bars on the market, with various diameters, clearances
to the wall, lengths, shapes and finishes. Choose a 1¼ inch
to 1½ inch diameter bar (whichever fits your hand size best)
that when mounted on the wall provides a clearance no greater than
1½ inches. If the clearance to the wall is greater than 1½ inches,
there is a safety concern; if you loose your balance, your arm could
slide between the wall and grab bar, getting “wedged” and
possibly breaking.
Grab bars don’t have to look “institutional.” There
are a variety of finishes, decorative flanges and screw cover plates
available. Grab bars also come in various colors to match your
décor, as well as brass, antique brass, chrome and bronze.
Some of the higher-end plumbing showrooms carry these more decorative
finishes and cover plates. In addition, some manufacturers offer
a “non-slip” grip surface, which is preferred.
Though at first glance grab bars by different manufacturers appear
to be comparable, the quality varies. Here are some questions to
ask yourself when choosing between a less expensive grab bar and
a higher quality grab bar:
• Does the grab bar support
the user’s
weight, or is a stronger grab bar needed? Some grab bars are designed
to only meet minimum code requirements and may not be able to support
the weight of a heavier person.
• If a stainless steel grab
bar is selected, will the materials eventually rust (especially
in a shower situation)? Grab bars that are made of 3 or 4 series
metals (stainless) should not rust, grab bars made of 1 or 2 series
metals can rust even though they are stainless steel.
• Will a powder-coated,
e.g.white grab bar rust?
• Is it important to
have a style where the screws are counter- sunk (recessed into the
bar flange)? Some manufacturers do not recess the screws into the
flange; thus they are less attractive and screws may catch on the
user’s
skin or snag their clothing.
• Is it important for
you to have the screws concealed for a more pleasing aesthetic image?
• Is
the flange thickness important to you? Some manufacturers offer a
12-gauge flange thickness, which is thicker than the more common
14-gauge. (Note: The lower the gauge the thicker the metal.)
• Is
the flange “hand pig” welded to the bar? If
not done by hand, the joint is thinner and may be weaker.
• Is
it important to have all visible clamp or fabrication marks removed
from the surface of the grab bar, or are minor imperfections acceptable?
• Is
a product guarantee important to you? Some manufacturers offer a
lifetime guarantee.
Finally, in regards to position and length, it is always best to
consult with your physician or therapist to determine the best grab
bar positioning for your safety needs. Good luck with your installation! ![]()
Do
you have a question for Jane and Accessibility Design? We’ll
cover all of your questions in future issues of Home Access Answers.
Please contact us: 952-925-0301, www.accessibilitydesign.com, info@accessibilitydesign.com
Jane Hampton, president of Accessibility Design, founded the company
in 1992 to enhance lives through design and project management. The
company provides design, consultation, project management, and product
recommendation services, specializing in home access for individuals
with disabilities at all stages of life.
